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大清国女子服饰 | Qing Dynasty: Women's Clothing | Pakaian Wanita Dinasti Qing

清朝(1636年—1912年)是中国历史上由满族建立的大一统王朝,也是中国最后一个封建王朝。

The Qing Dynasty (1636-1912) was the last centralized monarchy in Old China established by the Manchu people and was the last feudal dynasty in China’s history.

 Dinasti Qing (1636-1912) adalah kekaisaran yang dibentuk oleh para Manchu, juga merupakan dinasti terakhir di Cina.


清代女装,汉、满族发展情况不一。

汉族妇女在康熙、雍正时期还保留明代款式,时兴小袖衣和长裙;乾隆以后,衣服渐肥渐短,袖口日宽,再加云肩,花样翻新无可底止。到晚清时都市妇女已去裙着裤,衣上镶花边、滚牙子,一衣之贵大都花在这上面。满族妇女着“旗装”,梳旗髻(俗称两把头),穿“花盆底”旗鞋。

Women’s clothing in the Qing Dynasty, Han, and Manchu development is different.

Han women also kept the Ming style during the Kangxi and Yongzheng periods, with small sleeves and long skirts in fashion. After the Qianlong period, the clothes became fatter and shorter, the cuffs became wider, and Yunjian was added, giving rise to many new styles. By the late Qing, women were predominantly wearing pants.

Perubahan gaya berpakaian di Dinasti Qing antara wanita Manchu dan Han tidaklah sama. Di era Kangxi dan Yongzheng, para wanita Han masih mempertahankan gaya Dinasti Ming. Lengan kecil dan rok panjang masih cukup populer. Di era Qianlong, gaya pakaian semakin menggemuk dan lebih pendek, bagian bawah semakin melebar dengan tambahan lapisan di pundak.


图为清朝末年三个贵妇合影,她们身穿华丽的绸缎衣服,头上的头饰和耳朵上的耳环都应该价值不菲吧。每个人手中还拿有一把扇子,这个扇子可不是用来扇风消暑的,古代扇子更多是一种装饰包含着内涵和风雅的意思。


The picture shows a group photo of three noble ladies at the end of the Qing Dynasty. They were dressed in gorgeous silk clothes. The headdress on their heads and the earrings on their ears should be quite valuable. Everyone also had a fan in one's hand. Fans were not used to fan the heat,  it was more of a kind of decoration, which contains connotation and elegant meaning.


Dalam foto tampak tiga wanita dari akhir era Dinasti Qing. Pakaian mereka berbahan sutra halus dengan hiasan kepala dan anting-anting. Masing-masing memegang kipas yang sebenarnya lebih berfungsi sebagai dekorasi agar terlihat elegan.


图为清末一家庭合影,坐着的这五位女性着装华丽,这是个大户有钱人家,图中依稀可见这些女性是裹着小脚的。裹脚也叫缠足,是古时候的一种陋习,就是把女子的双脚用布帛缠裹起来,使其变成又小又尖的“三寸金莲”。这个也是审查一个女人美丑的一个重要指标,这真是一种病态审美观。孙中山于1912年3月11日发布《大总统令内务部通饬各省劝禁缠足文》直到这时缠足之风才逐渐停止。


The picture shows a group photo of a family in the late Qing Dynasty. The five women sitting here can be seen were practicing foot binding. Foot binding is a cruel traditional in the past, which is to wrap women's feet with cloth to make them small and sharp as"three inch Golden Lotus". This used to be an important indicator to examine a woman's beauty, which was a really morbid aesthetic view. On March 11, 1912, Dr. Sun Yat Sen issued "the great president ordered the Ministry of internal affairs to urge all provinces to forbid foot binding". Until then, foot binding gradually stopped.


Foto diatas menunjukkan sebuah keluarga dari akhir era Dinasti Qing. Kaki kelima wanita ini terlihat 'diikat', mereka menjalankan salah satu tradisi terkejam bagi wanita, yaitu tradisi 'mengikat kaki'. Kaki para wanita diikat/dibalut sedemikian rupa selama bertahun-tahun untuk menghalangi pertumbuhan alaminya, secara sengaja mematahkan dan melipat tulang telapak kaki sehingga hanya tumbuh sepanjang 3 inci, yang biasa disebut ‘Teratai Emas 3 inci'. 

Pada tanggal 11 Maret 1912, Dr. Sun Yat Sen secara resmi melarang tradisi ini.

图为清末皇宫里面的格格和宫女,虽然是黑白老照片但是依然能从她们衣服上那些精美的花纹看出当时衣服是有多么的漂亮。他们盘的都是旗头,这种发型我们在清宫戏里面常常能看到。旗头是清朝晚期在满族及清宫中为妇女所流行的一种头饰,为板状冠型,呈现如牌楼般高耸挺立的风貌。旗头是由"两把头"发展而来的,由于是进关以后才流行起来的,所以人们也把它叫"大京样"。


The picture shows the princesses and their maids in the Imperial Palace in the late Qing Dynasty. Although this is an old black and white photo, we can still see how beautiful the clothes were at that time from the exquisite patterns on their clothes. They were wearing Manchu’s high coiffure (Qitou) . We can often see this kind of hairstyle in operas of Qing Palace. Qitou is a headdress popular for women in Manchu and Qing palaces in the late Qing Dynasty. It is a plate-shaped crown, showing a towering style like a archway. The flag head was developed from the "two heads". It became popular after entering the customs, so people also called it "Dajing style".


Mereka adalah putri kekaisaran Dinasti Qing dan para pelayannya. Walaupun ini foto hitam-putih, tapi bisa kita lihat keindahan detail pakaian dan hiasan kepala mereka. Hiasan kepala mereka ini disebut Qitou, umum digunakan dalam opera ceritera Dinasti Qing. Qitou ini sangat populer dikalangan wanita era akhir dinasti Qing. Bentuknya pipih dan berbentuk seperti mahkota. 

图为清末一旗人家庭女子合影,后排的两个老妇人应该是府上的佣人。前排女子穿的都是清代花盆底鞋,这种鞋,上细下宽、前平后圆,以木为底,木底高跟一般高5-10厘米左右,有的可达14-16厘米,最高的可达25厘米左右。这难道就是古代的高跟鞋吗?由于满族妇女从小骑马,从不裹脚,她们习惯穿这种鞋,尤其是贵族妇女,普遍穿这种鞋,所以也叫旗鞋。


The picture shows a group photo of a banner family in the late Qing Dynasty. The two old women in the back row should be servants of the family. The women in the front row wore flowerpot soled shoes of Qing Dynasty. The shoes are thin in top and wide in bottom, flat in front and round in the back. The wooden soles are generally about 5-10 cm high, some can reach 14-16 cm, and the highest ones can reach about 25 cm. Are these ancient high-heeled shoes? 

Since Manchu women have been riding horses since childhood, they have never bound their feet. They are used to wearing these shoes, especially for aristocratic women. 


Ini adalah foto dari salah satu Keluarga Delapan Panji di era akhir Dinasti Qing. Baris pertama adalah anggota keluarga, dan kedua wanita di baris belakang diperkirakan adalah pelayan. Para wanita yang duduk dibaris depan semua memakai sepatu 'sol bentuk pot bunga'. Sepatu ini lebar dibagian bawah dan melingkar dibagian belakang. Tinggi solnya antara 5-10 cm, bisa juga mencapai 14-16 cm, yang paling tinggi sekitar 25 cm. Para wanita aristokrat umumnya memakai sepatu jenis ini. Ini mungkin ya high-heels jaman dulu? 

Para wanita Manchu sudah mulai belajar menunggang kuda sejak kecil, jadi mereka tidak mempraktekan tradisi mengikat kaki. 


图为清朝最有权利的女人慈禧皇太后和清宫妃子们的合影。慈禧左边的那个是光绪皇帝的瑾妃,瑾妃是光绪最喜欢的珍妃的姐姐,不过长得和珍妃差太多了。右边的是光绪帝的皇后静芬(也就是后来的隆裕太后)。隆裕是慈禧弟弟的女儿,是光绪的表姐。光绪十四年(1888年)被慈禧太后钦点成婚,次年立为皇后。


The picture shows the Empress Dowager Cixi, the most powerful woman in the Qing Dynasty, and the imperial concubines of the Qing Dynasty. The one on the left of Cixi is Emperor Guangxu's Concubin Jin, who was the sister of Guangxu's favorite princess, Concubin Zhen (Pearl)but she's too different from her sister. On the right is the Empress Jingfen (later empress dowager Longyu). Longyu was Cixi's younger brother's daughter and Guangxu's cousin. In 1888, Empress Dowager Cixi ordered Emperor Guangxu to marry her and she was made queen the next year. 


Duduk ditengah, adalah Ibu Suri Cixi, wanita paling berkuasa di masa Dinasti Qing. Disebelah kiri Cixi adalah Selir Jin, ia adalah kakak dari Selir Zhen (Mutiara), selir terfavorit Kaisar Guangxu.  Disebelah kanan Cixi adalah Permaisuri Jingfen (dikenal nantinya sebagai Ibu Suri Longyu). Longyu adalah anak dari adik  lelaki Cixi yang juga adalah sepupu Kaisar Guangxu. Pada tahun 1888, Cixi memerintahkan Kaisar Guangxu untuk menikahi sepupunya itu.


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By: Yuri Yeuyanan





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